Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,598 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 10, 2010 with updates from Dan Petty
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Slab your way past a couple of bolts to a small overlap/roof. Make a long move and mantel to a stance. Continue up the face past a bulge on to the top. Nice, long route for the Flakeview area.

Location

Flakeview Area...just to the right of Gunboat Diplomacy.

Protection

Bolts and rap anchors at the top.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thought the crux was down low unlike the description in the book being in the middle. Most of the upper section has very thin crimps. Try not to pop them while climbing. Oct 18, 2011
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.11a
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.11a
Tom - I suspect at some point in the future a sufficient number of these tiny flakes will have been to be pried free to make this thing quite a bit harder. Reminds me of a crimpy gym climb. Still, with so many bolts it must attract a lot of traffic and I guess it has lasted this long... Oct 18, 2011
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
Stellar crimpfest with good, balancey movement. Bring thin fingers gear to tame the runout between the third and fourth bolts. The crux is definitely down low, after that pretty close to Gunboat's level. Be careful on the belay - the first crux move is protected only by the first bolt, and falling on it with no slack will whip your shin right into a sharp ledge. I watched someone open his leg up pretty bad on it. Nov 7, 2011
jlane  
  • ** Important***

The route requires 2 ropes to get down. My partner and I had only a 70 meter rope. I lowered my partner down by using extra long slings, a 70 meter rope, TIED A KNOT IN MY END OF THE ROPE and even walked up the base of the climb to get him down. After I had led it and disassembled the anchor, I rapped down into a gully to the right WITH BOTH ENDS OF THE ROPE HAVING KNOTS IN THEM and was able to walk down. I do not recommend this, but if you do, PLEASE TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF THE ROPE. I only emphasize this due the recent accidents that have happened in the area.

Climb is awesome if you can handle pulling down on friable rock! Jan 31, 2012
It should be possible to rappel with one 60m rope by swinging left to the halfway anchors for Gunboat Diplomacy. We had two ropes, so rapped straight to the ground. When we climbed Gunboat, I noticed that each pitch is under 100 feet. Sep 24, 2012
we used a 70m to toprope, but just barely. got a little scared with the runouts, but im a wuss. Jan 2, 2013
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.10d
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.10d
If the run outs spook you, take some small cams. There are placements in between in those longer stretches. Jan 2, 2014
Kyle Kimball
Asheville, NC
  5.11a
Kyle Kimball   Asheville, NC
  5.11a
Really fun route if you are into techy faces- I brought up a stick with me to clip the second bolt- I did not want to blow the crux move there and bust my shins on that overhang- but it gets less scary after you get past that move- the difficulty doesn't let up though! May 4, 2014