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Routes in The Middle Boulder

Renegade V3 6A
Wallace's Roof V2+ 5+
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Matt Wallace 1/30/11
Page Views: 77 total · 1/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jan 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Sit start in the very back of the cave with a right hand hidden under-cling and left on top of the jug. Pull on and make a right hand move out to a 3 finger packet in the crack. From here move left hand out to a good but slightly slopey flake. Then encounter the crux. move to the lip using cool foot beta, once hit the lip make two moves up to a jug and drop off.

The first two moves will feel like the crux if you do not get the beta right think kneebar :)

The problem could not be topped out due to snow and ice but will be able to top out once the snow is gone and when that happens it will probably get another star and may be a bump up in grade.

There is a really hard looking variation that would come in from the left on a long horizontal roof and meet with this problem at the lip. Looks like it will be at least V8 any takers?


On the left side of the Middle Boulder clamber in between two coffee table size boulders to the little roof.


Pads for uneven landing and spotter.


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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Were you out there today Matt? I took a stroll up to Main Cliff-Monsters-Waimea to check to see what's dry, and I only saw a bunch of ice climbers. If you did climb--way to get the best out of a dreary winter day! Jan 30, 2011
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Yeah I was out there today, How did it look up there? I have discovered that I can boulder (productively) until about 10 degrees, after that the tight shoes just start to hurt! Jan 30, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think all of the water in the system is frozen, so all the rock is really dry. Jan 31, 2011
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Hey Matt i'd definitely be psyched to check out that v8-ish variation to this you were talking about, have you been back to this thing yet? Jun 3, 2016
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
No I have never really given it another thought, let me know when you are up this way sometime and we can take speak at it. Jun 3, 2016

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