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Routes in Hallway Boulder

Baby's Head V1 5 R
Break on Through V9 7C
Easy Street V-easy 3 PG13
Hallway Traverse V0 4
No Knees V0+ 4+
Project? V10+ 7C+
Static Eliminator V4 6B
Static Head V6 7A
Street Corner V0- 4-
Wedgie Roof V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Hasn't had one yet...
Page Views: 766 total, 9/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on the sit for Static Eliminator. Before reaching the dihedral, head left onto the blank face and attempt to traverse up and left, perhaps meeting up with the top of Break on Through.

Has anyone done this? It looks epic.

Location

Start as for Static Eliminator Sit.

Protection

Pads and spotters. The boulder is surprisingly tall.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Bernd is very strong. But he's, like, an adult. Where are the teenagers? Fer crissakes it's a boulder! May 21, 2012
I worked this a fair amount too (many years ago) getting to the middle of the wall where everything pretty much disappears. It might be possible, but I lost any hope. The fact that Bernd gave up too doesn't help my optimism any, since he's light years stronger than I ever was. Mar 27, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I scoped this out on a rope, too. For sure it seemed possible. I mean, I couldn't do anything with the holds but at least I could identify them, which is more than I can say for some of Sharma's problems. Seems that these days some of the kids out there would have little trouble. Tall, proud line for sure. One of the best in SB. May 18, 2011
Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
I visited this guy today. I rapped down and took a close look at the holds (you need to be close). It looks link-able. There is one section that has some really tiny holds.
It looks to me like the lower crux comes right at the beginning of the variation from Static Eliminator: you make a big move left to a slopey edge/pinch so that you can get your right hand in the "good" two finger pocket. This involves some really bad feet.
Then you have a few positioning moves, and then THE crux: Somehow use a two finger knob crimp, a somewhat large slopey edge angled in the wrong direction, and a few tiny but incut edges to move up and left to easier ground. You have a large left foot way out left and a decent but high right foot rail to work with. Hard.
Anyways, I brushed and chalked whatever looked like it might be useful. I'm not strong enough for this right now.
Anyone want an FA? Feb 12, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
To date, no one has yet linked this line. It might not go at all. Bernd has given it some effort, but he seemed pretty negative about it going last I talked to him. Jan 21, 2011