Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,618 total · 16/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Stand-start.

Crank through a serious of strenuous pockets to an exciting top-out. A fairly tall problem with a flat landing. The sit-start, which begins on an obvious crimp-rail, goes at V7 in the Ocean's Eleven book.

Location

On the downhill side of the Hallway Boulder. Just left of Baby's Head. Look for the obvious line of devious pockets.

Protection

None. However, while the landing is flat, a pad and competent spotter are recommended.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V4
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V4
The guidebooks give the sit-start a V7 rating, but a lot of climbers say it's solid V8. Whatever. You decide for yourself. In any case, the sequence is very, very hard and, in my opinion, strangely off-balance. Once you crank the sit-start, the "V4" moves all of a sudden feel desperate.

This problem is one of my top-ten favorites in Santa Barbara. Aug 31, 2010
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
I'll second the top ten favorite climbs in SB rating, one of the best v4's for sure Nov 23, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  V4
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  V4
Right hand on the high crimp about in the middle of the rail, left hand in the tiny shallow pocket just a bit lower and to the left of the crimp, pull up and put your right foot on the large lower rail, then crank upwards. I would believe V4 for that. Starting with right hand on sidepull and left hand on the crimp seems to be much much harder. Precision is needed in the small pockets. The topout is not hard, all the holds are there, but it takes commitment.

This problem is quality because it's not just a single hard move. It is fairly sustained for 3 moves or so until you gain the good holds up high, and the topout is easy but still spicy. Aug 11, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V4
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V4
I was reminded the other day that skin is vital on the devious crimpers of this problem. Discarding good-judgment, I climbed a full session on other lines, lost my skin, then went for the sit-start. A tiny crystal-thingy punctured the center of my pointer finger pad and blood SPURTED everywhere. It was quite comical in its abundance.

Apologies to those who climbed after me and had to crank through blood-streaks. Jun 1, 2012