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Early Access
Routes in University Wall
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Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Skinwalker, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.60548, -105.21994 |
| FA: | Richard Aschert, Darryl Roth, Bob D'Antonio, Jim Waugh, Jun '87 |
| Page Views: | 1,361 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.
Description
Among the best 5.12s at Shelf, Le Pumping Bull is worth the price of admission. Climbing an unparalleled swath of bullet hard stone, and offering sustained, pumpy movement up the continuously overhanging wall.
Begin at a left-facing corner 10' below a 2'-deep roof. Climb up the corner and make powerful moves to clear the roof. A pumpy stance on the slab above provides modest recovery. Work left, crossing a detached flake, towards another feature, then big moves to gain a horizontal band of sloping jugs. The crux follows with big reaches and minute crimps to reach another horizontal band of black rock (optional cam placement here). Roll up onto a slabby scoop for some much-needed rest. More continuous, pumpy climbing works up the more-featured black stone. After the 8th bolt, move right to the anchor on The Skinwalker, or continue to the top of the wall (no anchor).
Protection
9 bolts, no anchor. Possible to traverse to The Skinwalker anchor above bolt #8. Optional 3/4" cam for runout between bolts 4 & 5.
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