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Routes in University Wall

Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Skinwalker, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Darryl Roth, Richard Aschert, August '87
Page Views: 962 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

Perhaps Shelf's first 5.13 lead, Critical Mass climbs an amazing, bulging buttress of exquisite, bullet limestone. The business comes quick with a brutal "B2" boulder problem on poor crimps to reach a sinker 2-finger pocket at the first bolt. The crux ends with a big move to reach a large, flat edge at the 2nd bolt. The angle relents as the line moves left, into a scoop, past a bit of a runout to reach the third bolt. More featured black stone leads to a sloping ledge with a small dead tree halfway up the cliff. Continue up the steep, black headwall to the top of the cliff. No anchor.

Location

About 100' right of The Skinwalker is an overhanging hand crack (named "Pocket Rocket") in an orange wall. Critical Mass is the line of bolts 20' right of this crack.

Protection

9 bolts, no anchor. Stick clip mandatory for 1st bolt.

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