University Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.606, -105.22 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||3,249 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis proud cliff was once a prime destination for Shelf's top climbers, hosting an astounding collection of stellar lines. Development began here in the summer of 1987, and culminated in Darryl Roth's historic 1989 ascent of The Skinwalker, at the time Shelf's hardest free climb. An unfortunate indiscretion by a visiting climber caused the local land owner to close access to the crag, and as a result, these brilliant climbs have tragically drifted into obscurity.
Though the crag only features a modest number of routes, the harder lines are among the very highest quality routes of their grade's at Shelf. Of particular interest is Roth's masterpiece, which rivals The Example for the title of Shelf's best 5.13, and would warrant classic status at any climbing area in the country. Other stellar routes include Le Pumping Bull, The Sabbatical, Critical Mass, and Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. The mid-level routes here are not exceptional and probaby not worth the grueling, 45-minute approach and mandatory river crossings. Most do not have anchors, feature impressive runouts, and require supplemental trad gear.
Private Property Details
This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.
Routes L--> R:1. Unknown #1 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor
2. Unknown #2 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor
3. Bad Intuition, 5.10c? bolts & gear, no anchor?
4. Room With a View, 5.11a, 3 bolts, no anchor
5. Crowded House, 5.12a, bolts, no anchor? Begins on ledge directly above #4
6. Sorority Girls, 5.11+, bolts & gear, no anchor?
7. The Sabbatical, 5.12d?, 5 bolts, lower from last bolt (beefy cold shut)
8. Le Pumping Bull, 5.12b, 9 bolts, no anchor (or 8 bolts, finish on #9's anchor)
9. The Skinwalker, 5.13b, 8 cold shuts, 2 bolt anchor
10. Unknown #3 5.11/12?, red bolts, 2 bolt anchor (2nd chain anchor 40' above 1st anchor)
11. White Punks on Rope, 5.10c, bolts & gear, no anchor (move left to #10's 2nd anchor)
12. Pocket Rocket, 5.11+?, gear & 3 bolts?, no anchor?
13. Critical Mass, 5.13a?, 9 bolts, no anchor?
14. Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, 5.12-?, 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor?
15. One Tree Hill, 5.12-?, 5 bolts?, no anchor? (use #14's anchor?)
16. Unknown #4, 5.8/9?, 5 bolts to chain anchor (on east face of large boulder below #15)
17. Que Sera Sera, 5.12-?, 4 bolts & gear? no anchor?
This crag was included in Mark Van Horn's 1990 Shelf Road Rock Guide. Copies are currently available from Chessler, the Denver Public Library or CSprings Public Library. This book is still impressively accurate despite its age. PM for additional information.
Classic Climbing Routes at University Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season