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Routes in University Wall

Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Skinwalker, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 6,300 ft
GPS: 38.606, -105.22 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,249 total, 38/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This proud cliff was once a prime destination for Shelf's top climbers, hosting an astounding collection of stellar lines. Development began here in the summer of 1987, and culminated in Darryl Roth's historic 1989 ascent of The Skinwalker, at the time Shelf's hardest free climb. An unfortunate indiscretion by a visiting climber caused the local land owner to close access to the crag, and as a result, these brilliant climbs have tragically drifted into obscurity.

Though the crag only features a modest number of routes, the harder lines are among the very highest quality routes of their grade's at Shelf. Of particular interest is Roth's masterpiece, which rivals The Example for the title of Shelf's best 5.13, and would warrant classic status at any climbing area in the country. Other stellar routes include Le Pumping Bull, The Sabbatical, Critical Mass, and Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. The mid-level routes here are not exceptional and probaby not worth the grueling, 45-minute approach and mandatory river crossings. Most do not have anchors, feature impressive runouts, and require supplemental trad gear.
Private Property Details

Routes L--> R:

1. Unknown #1 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor
2. Unknown #2 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor

Break

3. Bad Intuition, 5.10c? bolts & gear, no anchor?

Break

4. Room With a View, 5.11a, 3 bolts, no anchor
5. Crowded House, 5.12a, bolts, no anchor? Begins on ledge directly above #4
6. Sorority Girls, 5.11+, bolts & gear, no anchor?
7. The Sabbatical, 5.12d?, 5 bolts, lower from last bolt (beefy cold shut)
8. Le Pumping Bull, 5.12b, 9 bolts, no anchor (or 8 bolts, finish on #9's anchor)
9. The Skinwalker, 5.13b, 8 cold shuts, 2 bolt anchor

Break

10. Unknown #3 5.11/12?, red bolts, 2 bolt anchor (2nd chain anchor 40' above 1st anchor)
11. White Punks on Rope, 5.10c, bolts & gear, no anchor (move left to #10's 2nd anchor)

Break

12. Pocket Rocket, 5.11+?, gear & 3 bolts?, no anchor?
13. Critical Mass, 5.13a?, 9 bolts, no anchor?

Break

14. Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, 5.12-?, 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor?
15. One Tree Hill, 5.12-?, 5 bolts?, no anchor? (use #14's anchor?)

Break

16. Unknown #4, 5.8/9?, 5 bolts to chain anchor (on east face of large boulder below #15)

Break

17. Que Sera Sera, 5.12-?, 4 bolts & gear? no anchor?

Additional Resources

This crag was included in Mark Van Horn's 1990 Shelf Road Rock Guide. Copies are currently available from Chessler, the Denver Public Library or CSprings Public Library. This book is still impressively accurate despite its age. PM for additional information.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at University Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Pumping Bull
Trad, Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
The Skinwalker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Le Pumping Bull 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
The Skinwalker 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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