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Routes in University Wall
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Critical Mass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Le Pumping Bull T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Room With A View S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Skinwalker, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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White Punks on Rope T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport |
| FA: | Glenn Schuler & Brent Kertzman |
| Page Views: | 673 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown.
Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.
Per K McG: this crag is on private property. The parceling and sale of lots on Dilley Ranch, which used to own University Wall, has created an unfortunate situation. University Wall now is split into 3 parts, each sitting on a different owner’s lot. The left 1/3 (northernmost) is on a huge piece of undeveloped land. The owner is not interested in splitting off any portion of it. The middle 1/3 is owned by reasonable people, but they do not own access to the bottom of the wall from either side. The righthand 1/3 (westernmost) is owned by people who have vowed to shoot trespassers. It is not worth it to try to climb here. Please stay away.
Description
A steep, fun, intermittent crack feature that begins with thin and technical climbing but culminates in a pumpy, juggy, overhanging finish on less than perfect rock. A great warmup.
Begin up a steep black wall below a white, shallow, left-facing corner. Work up to the corner where easier climbing heads up and right to the steep black headwall. Pumpy moves lead into a higher, chossy, left-facing corner. From a grassy ledge, move left to the anchor.
Begin up a steep black wall below a white, shallow, left-facing corner. Work up to the corner where easier climbing heads up and right to the steep black headwall. Pumpy moves lead into a higher, chossy, left-facing corner. From a grassy ledge, move left to the anchor.
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