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Routes in Land Before Time Wall

Basilisk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coprolite S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Neanderfall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prehistoric Extermination S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryanosaurus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sabertooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unhappy Feet T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watering Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ryan Jones
Page Views: 1,903 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mark Cushman on Nov 22, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Crimpy start to a small ledge, pull through a few more small pockets to get established above the bulge and then fire for the top.

Location

Third route from the right side of the crag.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (placed back from the edge quite a ways)

Photos

I was clipping the bolt after the big roof move and Zclipped! This is the only time in my 12 years I have done this. They are close and have a slight move to the left. I was pumped, so I know it was on me, but it was still a shock. Regardless, this is a great route. The bulge pull is a great place to work some technique if you don't want to have a bruised rear from a ledge fall. Not a problem with a little wet. Aug 11, 2017
HassleSchroff
Dayton, OH
 
HassleSchroff   Dayton, OH
 
This is a fun route, and the nice holds above the bulge (and good clipping stance) can make for a fun dyno.

I brought an alpine draw for the second-to-last bolt, otherwise you get a small amount of sideways rope drag. A single shoulder-length sling works great. Jun 15, 2015
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
attempted it at the end of a long day and that roof pull hit me hard. Ending up having my friend throw our stick clip up to me and clipped the next bolt from the ledge. Pulling the move would have been very doable for me earlier in the day. Jun 2, 2014