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Routes in Land Before Time Wall

Basilisk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coprolite S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Neanderfall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prehistoric Extermination S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryanosaurus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sabertooth S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unhappy Feet T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watering Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 889 total, 10/month
Shared By: Peter Jackson on Nov 28, 2010 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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48 Opinions

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Description

Pocketed face with three bolts to chains. Immediately right of Basilisk.

Protection

3 bolts to chains

Photos

- No Photos -
Alex Kauer
Royal Oak, MI
  5.9
Alex Kauer   Royal Oak, MI
  5.9
Ran into some loose holds up near the top. Belayer took a miniature train size piece to the thigh. Proceed with caution.

Though short and underrated, this route has a little bit of everything. Great warm up route. the start is rather tough for beginners, but the route as a whole poses many challenges. Pinches and small pockets give way to sloped crack that requires a good mantle. Sep 5, 2017
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
 
It's been almost 4 years since I was there, so my guess is I either remembered wrong, or a bolt was added. Updated.

I can't speak to the grade, though I'll say that if I thought it was mislabeled when I climbed it, I'd have noted that in the description. There was a piece of notebook paper that listed the routes and grades posted on a stick when the area was being developed: I just listed the grade that was on the paper.

Given how loose the blocks on that end of the wall were when the routes went in, it wouldn't surprise me if some key holds were lost and the grade bumped up in the past 4 years. Jun 6, 2014
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
IIRC its 3 bolts to chains.
Also, I highly doubt its a 5.8-. The face is very pocketed and looks like it should have many good holds, but most the pockets are either too small or slope down inside making them difficult to use. My last trip down, myself and 2 other 5.10 climbers struggled with this one Jun 2, 2014