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Routes in Lizardhead Boulders

Gilory's Gully T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not So Pumper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pumper Number 9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: John Sanders, Lauren Clayton
Page Views: 1,564 total · 17/month
Shared By: Zach Wahrer on Oct 31, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This amazing hand crack has a bouldery roof start that can be skipped by using the cheater boulder in front of the crack (resulting in a grade reduction to 5.8). Either way it's climbed, the route is a lot of fun.

It can easily be toproped by climbing up the easy ramp located on the left side of the boulder formation.

Location

This is the obvious crack located on the northern face of the Lizardhead boulders.

Protection

(2) #1, (2) #2, and (1) #3 Camalot protect this climb very well. A crash pad is definitely helpful if you plan on doing the roof crack start. (2) #3 and a #2 Camalot for a gear anchor if you wish to toprope. No fixed anchors.

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Zach Wahrer
Bozeman, MT
 
Zach Wahrer   Bozeman, MT
 
The 5.9+ start seems a bit sandbagged IMO! May 15, 2011
Hahahaha! Yeah, I'll second that. Mar 17, 2013
Fun route, worth finding these boulders just for this one. Easy protection on the lead. #2s and #3s for the anchor. Apr 4, 2013
Per the guidebook Little Dome Driver the sit start at the back of the cave is a V4 (5.12a) problem. The standing start is 5.9+ which I'd agree with. Just like 2 strenuous moves before getting to the easy stuff. Jan 8, 2016
I think the start is super height dependant. Seems to me that if you were tall enough (I'm not) you could get into bomber jams right off the deck and just grunt through crap feet. Dec 30, 2017

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