Type: Sport, TR, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: TR'd by Mike Lewis | Bolted by Larry Spears, Phil Broscovik | Chopped by Park Staff | Re-Bolted by Clint Brooks
Page Views: 341 total · 77/month
Shared By: C B on Dec 3, 2020
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

A seriously tough start! A low left foot makes for a crumbly smear, but a high right will let you reach an obvious crystal. Tall-people-beta would make this significantly easier. There are a couple good hand holds to choose from for clipping the first bolt. The second bolt's clipping stance is a no-brainer from the ledge. After that, climb just past your waist-high protection to pull the slightly-overhanging finish! It's recommended to just top this one out if you're on lead, otherwise your anchor's going to be in the way when you're searching for those tiny nubbins.

Location

Far right side of the West Face | Around the corner from Pumper #9 | Between Carnivore Boulders, Loop Boulders, and Safe Harbor

Protection

2 face bolts | 2 anchor bolts (easily accessible for setting up TR anchor)

History Etc..

According to The Dome Driver's Manual, the route was originally toproped by Mike Lewis. Lore has it that Larry Spears and Phil Broscovik then came along and renegade bolted it when head ranger at the time, Jessie, was off duty. After word of the new hardware found its way to park staff, the hangers were removed and only the four 3/8" studs were left to mark the original locations. Following ERSNA's recently established route development application process, new 12mm bolts were installed to once again protect the face climbing and offer convenient anchors for top-roping.

This video shows the first redpoint free climb using the new hardware.

Thanks go out to Bill Gooch for exploratory top-rope belays, constructive critiques on application drafts, and co-signing the final route application; Bill Horton for coordinating and lending out the CTCC's bolt-removal tools; Forrest Wilder for lending out various tools and lead belaying the first re-ascent; and Austin Bolen and Katherine Jashinski for help with re-bolting, taking photos, and providing candid and blithesome banter throughout.

Photos