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Jessie's Day Off
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Lizardhead Boulders
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Gilory's Gully T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jessie's Day Off S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Learning To Fly S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not So Pumper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pumper Number 9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | TR'd by Mike Lewis | Bolted by Larry Spears, Phil Broscovik | Chopped by Park Staff | Re-Bolted by Clint Brooks |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | C B on Dec 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff |
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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Description
A seriously tough start! A low left foot makes for a crumbly smear, but a high right will let you reach an obvious crystal. Tall-people-beta would make this significantly easier. There are a couple good hand holds to choose from for clipping the first bolt. The second bolt's clipping stance is a no-brainer from the ledge. After that, climb just past your waist-high protection to pull the slightly-overhanging finish! It's recommended to just top this one out if you're on lead, otherwise your anchor's going to be in the way when you're searching for those tiny nubbins.
Location
Far right side of the West Face | Around the corner from Pumper #9 | Between Carnivore Boulders, Loop Boulders, and Safe Harbor
History Etc..
According to The Dome Driver's Manual, the route was originally toproped by Mike Lewis. Lore has it that Larry Spears and Phil Broscovik then came along and renegade bolted it when head ranger at the time, Jessie, was off duty. After word of the new hardware found its way to park staff, the hangers were removed and only the four 3/8" studs were left to mark the original locations. Following ERSNA's recently established route development application process, new 12mm bolts were installed to once again protect the face climbing and offer convenient anchors for top-roping.
This video shows the first redpoint free climb using the new hardware.
Thanks go out to Bill Gooch for exploratory top-rope belays, constructive critiques on application drafts, and co-signing the final route application; Bill Horton for coordinating and lending out the CTCC's bolt-removal tools; Forrest Wilder for lending out various tools and lead belaying the first re-ascent; and Austin Bolen and Katherine Jashinski for help with re-bolting, taking photos, and providing candid and blithesome banter throughout.
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