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Routes in Sunbeam Buttress

Backstabber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonshine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Predator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radical Evolution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revenge of the Sith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunbeam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Universal Gravitation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where's My Chisel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: J.J., Jared Hancock, Bram Bell 2005
Page Views: 560 total, 6/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Oct 7, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Climb the same start as Moonshine. Stay left of the arete for a difficult roof pull. Clip the long SS cable hanging from the bolt and make very strenuous moves to get established above the roof. Follow pumpy slots and horizontals to the anchor.

Beware the crux has ledge fall potential without a watchful belay.

Location

At the head of the trail on the left side of an arete. It has a long SS cable on the first bolt on the large ledge. A 50 or 60m rope will work.

Protection

Draws for 7 bolts. Rap anchors at the top.

Photos

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