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Routes in Sunbeam Buttress

Backstabber S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonshine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Out of the Dark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Predator S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radical Evolution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Revenge of the Sith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stems and Seeds TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunbeam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Universal Gravitation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Where's My Chisel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Rizzo, 2005
Page Views: 420 total, 7/month
Shared By: Peter Lundgren on Oct 22, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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One move wonder stepping up onto the slab at the second bolt.


Leftmost route at Sunbeam Buttress.


4 bolts


- No Photos -
Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
There are tons of 5.9s that are stellar leads and fun topropes, with great movement and holds, in Muir and all over the Red. This is not one of them. It was not worth the time. Mar 20, 2016
Will Hipschman
Durham, NC
Will Hipschman   Durham, NC
The second bolt move is a 5.9 slab move--feels sketchy but totally do-able. High right foot, mantle with the left hand and push. Using the mantle the high holds are reachable for me (5'9"). You can clip the bolt before this move, so it's well-protected. May 25, 2015
There should really be a warning at the bottom of this route saying don't climb it. If you want a good 5.9 here try Backstabber. Nov 26, 2013
Samuel Roberts  
This Route actually 5.7 A0 because of the second bolt move for anybody that can't reach the holds or don't have small enough fingers to fit into the bolt hole for the artificial hold Mar 31, 2013
Peter Lundgren
Boulder, CO
Peter Lundgren   Boulder, CO
Don't climb this; it's awful. But I did think that moving onto the slab was a thought provoking mantle. Maybe 5.10 based on my abilities at the time. Feb 23, 2013
Scott Marsh  
Not a good route. Used to be a bolted on hold because stepping up to the slab was is impossible unless you're extremely tall and can reach the very high crimps. I'm 6'4" and had a hard time reaching them. You could aid through using the first bolt on the slab grabbing the quickdraw, but kinda ruins the route. Nov 12, 2012