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Routes in (2) Middle Earth

Grab n' Go S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Helm's Deep S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Pain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leisure Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Owl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Redhorn Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rude Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Why Must I Cry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jon Stewart, Mark Deffenbaugh, Kevin Rauch
Page Views: 2,983 total · 33/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Description

Pretty sustained, somewhat pumpy and not terribly technical, this route is a good way to get the blood flowing and get warmed up for the rest of your day.

The classic way to start this route is to simply step out over the gap from the comfortable belay ledge to the wall and start climbing, but if you screw it up you'll fall on the horrible impaling tree stump six feet down. If that seems too sketchy you can always start to the left and traverse to the first bolt.

If I had to pick out a crux I'd say it's between the second and third bolts, but frankly it's all pretty similar. Good rail-pulls the whole way up and a very slight overhang make for a solid, sustained route.

Location

Look for a line of bolts above a gap between the wall and the rock promontory--that's Helm's Deep.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
  5.9+
I am amazed that I haven't fallen off the ledge into the crack or down the hill. It's only a matter of time before someone does...

That being said, this is a phenomenal climb though it is a bit heady for a 5.9. Lots of rests and good movement make for an enjoyable route. Dec 13, 2015
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.9
A nice ring jam works well through the crux.
Take note that you are belaying from a narrow pedestal and not on the ground level. Apr 14, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.9
FYI, the FA has added a bolt to the runout between bolts 4-5 where gear would have been placed. Again, this bolt was added by the FA. Jun 28, 2014
Great route description. Never have placed gear on it either but if the grade is near your limit then it might be worthwhile.


Chad May 13, 2014
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.9
I felt this route goes comfortably with just the BD .5 in the obvious horizontal b/w bolts 4 and 5. In addition, you can start the route from the ground below the step across. There are a few sidepull flakes that help you get started and then you can traverse left to the first bolt. As for the crux, there's a bouldery move near the 2nd bolt that is the greatest challenge for most people, especially those with limited reach. Apr 22, 2012
Eric Schnepel
Portland
 
Eric Schnepel   Portland
 
Solid warm-up. Purple and gold BDs fit perfectly in a couple horizontal slots between the 4th and 5th bolt. The gold is almost unnecessary however, as it is placed within 1 or 2 moves of a bolt. Wouldn't be terrible to lead this without gear if you are solid at the grade. Feb 4, 2011

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