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Routes in (2) Middle Earth

Grab n' Go S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Helm's Deep S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Pain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leisure Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Owl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Redhorn Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rude Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Why Must I Cry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Micah Klesick/Ethan Vella
Page Views: 1,221 total, 29/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Jul 7, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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30 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun new route, sandwiched between House of Pain (5.11a) and Redhorn Gate (5.8). It shares the House of Pain anchors. Its fairly sustained on the upper half, which might make the 5.10c rating feel harder if you don't have a lot of endurance.
Start under the roof on the right side below the first bolt. Uses a combination of underclings, a couple jugs, and a strenuous and crimpy crux. Follow the bolt line straight up. If you try to venture too far left or right, you will end up getting into awkward moves that will make the route harder.

Location

Just right of House of Pain.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor (Shared with House of Pain)

Photos

Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
 
Climbed twice. Went up the face following the bolt line and climbed through the runout. Later in the day I thought I'd switch over to the arete which made for much harder climbing which was every bit of 10d. So pumpy! Sep 12, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
I found the crux down low moving on after clipping the 2nd bolt. Committing reachy moves to a fairly good edge and then a stretchy throw to the left horn, 10d for me. Up higher the route climbs through 10b/c terrain including a crimpy throw to a honkin good ledge. Super fun! Mar 30, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
Added Rap Rings to the shared anchor on 1/14/15. Jan 17, 2015