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Routes in (2) Middle Earth

Grab n' Go S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Helm's Deep S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Pain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leisure Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Owl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Redhorn Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rude Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Why Must I Cry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Jon Stewart, Mark Deffenbaugh
Page Views: 1,218 total, 14/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Really solid feet and wide ledges make for a route that's not terribly physically demanding, but what it lacks in pump-factor it makes up for with some interesting technical moves above bulges.

The first crux comes just above the third bolt as you move through a notch in a bulge. There are decent holds here if you fish for them.

The second crux is just below the anchors, where you're faced with an entirely blank looking bulge. You can go left here into the crack or for a more unique experience go straight up and mantle the bulge. I don't want to give it away, but it's not hard if you can find the right positioning.

Location

Leftmost line of bolts in the Middle-earth area. In other words, the first line of bolts you'll encounter after taking the left fork in the trail. Look for a nice level rock at the base of a tree to belay from.

Protection

I've seen people place gear lower down here, but the climbing is easy enough that I didn't bother. I felt perfectly fine leading this on just the bolts.

Photos

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
 
I think the 5.10a grade is warranted if you stay left of the bolt line. Apr 10, 2017
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
  5.9+
There is enough good movement to keep me coming back to it, though it is basically a warm-up climb. I don't know that the moves warrant the 5.10a grade but there is a pretty good distance between the last clip and the anchor which gets the heart pumping. Dec 13, 2015
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.9+
Climbed this today, and I think this is a pretty underrated route. I'm giving it a 5.9+, but only because it's somewhat technical; I think this route is easier than any other 5.9 bolted route at Ozone. Bolts are easy enough to get to, and protect all the difficult moves. Maybe it's a bit dirtier than other nearby climbs, but I think it's well worth a look. Jul 18, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
The third bolt on this route is in an awkward position given either the left or right variation around the bulge. Apr 14, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
There is no need for gear on this route. The 1" placement the book notes is 3' below the next bolt on 5- rock.

Below the first bulge, you can either go right or left. I've found the right to be more direct and aesthetic. There is a run-out through easy terrain, past a tree, and up to a big ledge. Again, you can go left or right. I use the arete on the right. Climb easy blocks to the anchors.

Both of these choices seem to make the route easier and keep it 10a. But really, this route is just two moves, and I don't plan to do it again. Ever.

5 bolts + anchors. About 70 feet. Apr 9, 2012