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Routes in (2) Middle Earth

Grab n' Go S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Helm's Deep S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Pain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leisure Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Owl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Redhorn Gate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rude Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Variety T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Why Must I Cry S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jon Stewart, Kevin Evansen, Maggie Evansen
Page Views: 2,429 total, 27/month
Shared By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 11, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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63 Opinions

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Description

Fairly easy climbing up to the crux: some bouldery moves to get around the roof. Mind your clipping stances as you do this--you really don't want to have to clip midway through the crux if you can avoid it.

Above the roof is a good rest followed by some much easier climbing to the anchors.

Location

To the left of Helm's Deep, this is the middle set of bolts in the Middle-earth area. Look for the distinctive roof at the second bolt, roughly 15 feet off the deck.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Kev
Kev  
Anchor was placed where it is at because of the loose rock out left. The anchor is in the best rock. Aug 10, 2016
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
 
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
 
That third clip is pretty terrible. The first time I lead this route I skipped the clip above the roof and climbed higher up in a desperate attempt to find some good jugs. Bad idea, since that could have easily lead to a ground fall.

Some useful beta: From the left handed undercling and right-handed incut crimp rail underneath the roof it is easy to get a high right foot smear and then (for climbers with smaller feet) a left heel hook into the top niche of the big well-chalked flake which gives access to the third clip without being put in such an awkward, exposed position. Big-footed climbers like myself are SOL and pretty much have to get the clip from the testicle-withering pre-mantel. May 9, 2016
T Banch
Aspen, CO
 
T Banch   Aspen, CO
 
House of Pain has 6 bolts, not including the anchor. Jul 11, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11a
Added Rap Rings on 1/14/15. Jan 17, 2015
redlude97
  5.11a
redlude97  
  5.11a
Thanks for doing that Micah, the blocks are loose but pretty secure. Prying them out may affect the integrity of the other holds. Agreed it will never be an easy route to clean but at least with rings or quicklinks you can tram in to get at the bolts of the roof and then go in direct to clean the last two. Sep 30, 2014
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11a
I'll take a look at the loose blocks next time I'm out there and see if they need trundling. As far as the anchor, I'm planning to add rap rings to it soon. However, that actually won't help in back cleaning the route. Due to the anchor being on the opposite side of the arĂȘte, coupled with the roof, its just not a good position to back clean and will always be hard to do. Sep 29, 2014
redlude97
  5.11a
redlude97  
  5.11a
Good route, as noted some loose blocks below the roof could pull out. The choice of Met Rap Hangers for the anchor was a pretty poor choice and makes its a pain to clean on rappel because of the traverse and roof section. Ended up cleaning the last 2 bolts once back the ground by climbing back up to grab them. Considering the other anchors on nearby routes, the lack of chains or quicklinks seems odd Sep 29, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11a
Cool route, really sharp flakes. On the traverse in from the left, be careful of what you grab... there are several loose chunks that could really hurt someone. This route is exactly 50 feet long. 5 bolts. Apr 7, 2012