All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > H) Hellbound Area

Hellbound for Glory

Name: Hellbound for Glory
Rating: 3.7

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in H) Hellbound Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Can't Find My Guernsey Cow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Glass Onion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Height of Flashin', The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hellbound for Glory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hog Waller T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	La Hora Brava T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Luck of the Draw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Maximum Leader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nestle Krunch Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pulling on Porcelain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Voyeur Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	38.0536, -81.05917
FA:	Doug Crosby, Jim Woodruff, 1990
Page Views:	3,867 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Sep 6, 2010
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

It's a shame that you can't access this wonderful face climb without doing the dirty start of The Frictional Heat Experiment. Despite this, it's worth it. Do it! Climb up the face to reach a small overhang and first bolt. Traverse out left to reach the crack in the overhang and traverse back right to reach the 2nd bolt. Move left long the horizontal crack to its end, clip the 3rd bolt and head straight up to reach a small overhang (crux). From here, head up the face, trending right for a bit, finding positive holds between thin moves. The route thins out around the last bolt, but positive holds will take you to the anchors.

Location

From the Honeymooner's Ladders, head downstream. Pass the high concentration of 4 star 12's and 13's, staying close to the cliff. Pass Glass Onion, 5.10b and continue for another 40 feet. This climb begins in the dirty corner of The Frictional Heat Experiment, 5.10a and heads left on to the beautiful face as soon as possible.