Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hellbound Area

Can't Find My Guernsey Cow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Glass Onion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hellbound for Glory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La hora brava T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Luck of the Draw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maximum Leader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulling on Porcelain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Voyeur Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andreas Audetat
Page Views: 489 total · 7/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 19, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The moves on Pulling on Porcelain are challenging and fun, but the main thing that detracts from the quality of this climb is its close proximity to its neighbor, “Maximum Leader.” Through the first six bolts there are times when you have little choice but to stray into the bolt line to the right. You get to decide just how contrived you want to make this line. This is one of the longest and most varied routes on the endless wall.

Begin by jumping off the ground to a jug and zooming to a horizontal break just below the second bolt. Get ready for the V6 crux which involves surmounting a bulge through the use of some tricky footwork and precision deadpoints. At this point the division line between the two routes becomes a bit blurry so climb the line of least resistance and try not to overcomplicate things. Rest up at the sixth bolt on a dinner plate jug and then move into the second sustained crux. Hug the overhanging arête and make some long reaches between incut pockets. The final moves of the sequence, transitioning left around the arête, are both delicate and powerful. It is best to climb past the eighth bolt before you attempt to clip it.

With the eighth bolt clipped all that stands between you and the chains is five more bolts of tenuous 12a slab climbing. Embrace this “solo journey” as it is all but impossible for your belayer to see you. Enjoy the exposure!

Additional Notes: Leave the first bolt unclipped and stick clip a long sling to the second bolt to reduce rope drag. A double length draw on the final bolt makes clipping more manageable. The route gets shade by mid day.

Location

Climbs up the right side of Diamond point. The route begins with a footless roof move. Look for the square cut mammut hangers.

Protection

13 bolts plus anchor

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About Pulling on Porcelain

Printer-Friendly