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Routes in Soot Patrol Boulder

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,627 total, 18/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Aug 23, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Go up via some very bad holds to a decent edge, and, if you're feeling brave, up the manky slab above to top out the boulder.
I have not sent, only tried this route a few times, so I don't know exactly how hard it is, but the holds you end up deadhanging off of definitely suck, so Banks' grade seems reasonable.
Anyway, this route has some of the weirdest movement I've ever experienced.
Fun to work on.

Location

To the right of Mr Witty. Sit start on the left side of the cave, left hand on the large undercling hueco and right on the arete feature of the cave.

Protection

One pad is sufficient if you plan on stepping off after the difficult portion. If you want to top out, I'd suggest a spot or two and a few more pads.

Photos

Marcus LaCavera
Goleta, CA
  V9
Marcus LaCavera   Goleta, CA
  V9
Disclaimer: I over-eliminated I think! Could have sworn the big foot out right was off... Either way I love this climb. Spent like 3-4 minutes on the slab due to numb toes and bad eyesight - excuses. @ 2:58!

youtu.be/Gi1rL9clw58?t=177 Jul 20, 2016
Nice job Tim. Looks about as kosher as it could possibly get. May 22, 2013
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
Forcing the line or not, I'd say the movement on this problem is classic. Cool bumps through unique edges, subtle footwork, a hard dead-point and an exciting technical (and tall) slab top-out.

If the right side of the boulder fell off it would get 5 stars for sure, as is it's still awesome. Apr 24, 2013
Tim King
  V9
Tim King  
  V9
Actually, you gave it two stars Bob. Ha, just nitpicking. ;)

This thing is still rejecting me. Can't get that high heel beta to work (yet), but I've been trying and getting close to the 'big move' way. Rain all this week, so pure training right now, but once things dry up I'm attacking this and Break On Through.

I'll edit this worthless comment once I do some more work.
Edit: Getting... Closer.....
Edit2: Finally got this thing, took me forever... Felt great once it goes though. Good fun+
All Mod Cons from Tking on Vimeo.
Curious if this beta is 'kosher'
Did it almost the same as Paul, except I hold the initial right heel hook and then cross left leg through for a toe hoe, before bringing the right up and over for the heel.
Also, the lower hold on the slab he uses was gone, but I was able to reach a higher one... Dec 2, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
As I recall in Paul's vid the girl uses the big hold on Standing on the Corner... which it looks like Andy is going to in the pic here. Significantly easier! May 27, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Okay, Bob hath spoken.

You're right. Perhaps I should have said "I almost did it first try". Either way, thanks for clearing up the confusion. Aug 24, 2010
Andy, nitpicking here, but you just hit on one of my bouldering pet peeves, and that is: "almost onsighting"....which is what? Oh right, it's "NOT onsighting", so if you "typically don't onsight V8 or V9", then you still don't. The only thing that 2nd try means is that you didn't onsight it.

Secondly, yes, you were doing it wrong. "Soul Cal" is rife with mis-information (Mister Witty V11? Serious as A Deacon V3? The list goes on...). "All Mod Cons" goes STRAIGHT up the left side. Heading out right to use huge holds on Standing on the Corner is not on. , I tried to be clear about this in O11 and obviously "All Mods" is not a classic because it's forcing the line (I think I gave it 1 star??), but early ascentionists all told me I was super sandbagging at V9, and that was when the upper hold on the slab was bigger. This video of Paul is correct, NOT reaching out to that big hold out right like the girl did in his video. Aug 24, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Per the sequence in the climbing film Soul Cal, this route clocks in at V7/8. There is absolutely no way it is V9. There are a number of different sequences that MIGHT be harder and approach such a grade, but the current problem (two small crimps followed by a deadpoint to a small side-pull) is simply challenging, not epic. I say this not to toot my horn, but me and my buddy almost on-sighted the problem (again, per the Soul Cal beta), and we do not typically on-sight V9. Or V8.

I'm completely willing to admit we are doing it wrong. Anyone? Anyone? Aug 23, 2010
Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
Here is a video of Paul Dusatko sending this climb. Not the best quality.


youtube.com/watch?v=kMXKBCy… Aug 23, 2010