Type: Trad
FA: Jon Stewart, Ryan Sund Summer 07
Page Views: 265 total · 3/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Same start as GOOD VIBRATIONS. Traverse left under the large roof using the horizontal roof crack. Clip a bolt and turn the roof on the left. Follow a clean seam to the top anchors.

A direct variation (5.9) can be climbed that ascends straight up the wall to the corner of the roof on good holds.

Note that the first gear placement on the original and direct lines is a good 20' above the belay.

Protection

Cams to 2"
Doubles in the 0.75" to 1.5" range

Photos

Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.9
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.9
We had a ton of fun on this route. Small cams on the way up to the traverse then save your BD 0.5 to BD 0.75 cams for the traverse. A nice 0.4 protects the move from out of the roof and the bolt helps keep the rope from dragging in the crack. A BD 0.75 or 1.0 and BD 2.0 should get you through the finish.

Don't miss this one! Mar 19, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.9
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.9
Climbed and added the direct variation today. I'm sure that someone has climbed this variation before as it is too obvious a line not to have been done. May 22, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.9
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.9
Fun route. I walked a long slung .75 along the traverse to reduce the rope drag. Tricky move pulling past the roof. Definitely one of the better routes here.
The direct variation is just as good IMO, and should be done as well. And has much less rope drag. Aug 15, 2015