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Routes in (4) Maple Tree Cluster

'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boo Coup T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buried Treasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closeout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exchange Student T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
French Intern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good Vibrations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Head Wall, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Martyr, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sharpen Your Teeth T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoulder Hop TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step and Fetch It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stewart's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet Fucker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 668 total · 7/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Stand on the small pedestal of broken square blocks to start this face crack. An offset Alien, #4 BD nut, or #0 or #1 metolius tcu will stick for the first piece in what appears to be a flaring butt crack to get you off the ground. Face holds and intermittent cracks moving left and then right following the walls weakness's will gain the top ledges, traverse left 10' to the chains on the next route over.


Standard rack plus offset alien low on route.


  5.10 PG13
  5.10 PG13
I've been asked by 2 folks if they could add a bolt to the place where the offset Alien would go (lower down, it's probably the first piece and then it gets into the business). I said YES both times but was out there yesterday and still don't see where any bolt has been added yet. Feel free to put it in if you are so inclined. Make sure it's a good one. Feb 10, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
I climbed this yesterday, and there is no need for bolts. The flared slot crux at the beginning protected very well with a #4 nut, and/or a #0 or #1 metolius cam (blue or yellow). The flare above that protected fine with a orange metolius tcu. Apr 30, 2015
I agree with Micah. We considered a bolt, but it turns out a yellow metolius back as high and deep as possible is bomber, and you can also slot a nut a few inches lower under that cam. You easily place and test both. No bolt needed. Apr 30, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
Fun route and consistent good quality gear or should I say beaucoup gear. Supporting the previous comments, a Yellow MasterCam fit exceptionally well as a first piece of gear in the flare. I'd use it over a nut as the placement was solid as a directional as well.

Definitely not "PG" as there is plenty of gear Apr 30, 2015

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