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Routes in (4) Maple Tree Cluster

'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boo Coup T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buried Treasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closeout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exchange Student T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
French Intern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Metal Jacket T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good Vibrations T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Wall, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Martyr, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sharpen Your Teeth T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoulder Hop TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step and Fetch It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stewart's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet Fucker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tyler Kamm/Bryan Smith - 2009
Page Views: 160 total · 4/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Mar 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the steep and smooth corner just left of Boo Coup. Boulder up to a 2 inch cam placement, then climb up and right to the very high first bolt. Moderate terrain with natural protection leads to a bolt protecting the arete crux, while small cams and nuts protect the slabby finish up to the Boo Coup anchor.

Location

Just left of Boo Coup, on the Main Wall

Protection

Single set of gear to 2 inches.

Photos

bryans
  5.10c
bryans  
  5.10c
This climb stays clean and dry but the moves onto the final ledge can be dirty as that ledge gets carpeted unless it's been cleaned. If you aren't sure, consider climbing Boo Coup first, as it gains that ledge much more easily from further right. Then clean that ledge for all of us! Apr 30, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.10c
I second Bryan's comment about cleaning it. The start is bouldery and consider pre-placing a BD0.3 equivalent cam in the small crack 7' up if you are unsure as it'll save you and your belayer some trouble. Otherwise it's a fun line with a well protected crux. The FA recommended to avoid climbing the flake 1/2 way up and instead moving further right to a better nut placement. Not intuitive but helpful beta.

Apr 30, 2015

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