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Routes in (4) Maple Tree Cluster

'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boo Coup T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buried Treasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Closeout T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exchange Student T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
French Intern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Vibrations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Head Wall, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Martyr, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sharpen Your Teeth T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoulder Hop TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step and Fetch It T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stewart's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet Fucker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Coe, Kenny Allen, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 192 total, 2/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Located to the right of Hummingbird Wall and 8 feet to the west of The Head Wall route, if walking the base, before the start of the cliff starts to get shorter, steep and overhanging in spots by the base is a face with some pods and small intermittent cracks for small TCU's and Nuts for pro along with a TCU/small cam for the crux. Start up the face and clip the bolts with a couple of small TCU placements between them. Climb to the base of a beautiful headwall crack and go straight up that obvious crack to the out of sight and on the top belay anchor. Don't make your Mamma cry and shame your ancestors by wussing out and traversing right 10' to the anchors visible on The Head Wall. Walk to your car or rap off the stainless Fixe anchors.

Protection

Standard rack to .5"

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10a
great route, one of the better here. Aug 17, 2015
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
We climbed this and the bolts are a great addition to bring more climbers to what is now a sweet mixed line. If you bring a 0.2 BD X4, a small nut and a 0.5 BD X4/Camalot for the exit you'll only need draws otherwise.

A bit dirty but a very fun route. Thx Bill! Mar 19, 2015
Chris-Bailey
Olympia, WA
 
Chris-Bailey   Olympia, WA
 
Great climb. The bolts were nice, maybe excessive to have so many, but I clipped them all just the same :). You can protect the top crack with a couple of small nuts and a .3 C4 if that's all you've brought with you. Sep 9, 2014
Billcoe  
If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.9. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.

So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts now and not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure too after discussions with the generally anti-bolt Woo Li Master.

It takes tiny to med cams, couple of @ 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. The tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful, but if you don't have them, what I've seen people do is walk across on the ledge towards the East The Headwall anchors which are visible, whereas Sweet Fuckers are on top and out of sight from the ground. The anchor was placed there as the Woo Li Master thought that it would be a great top out route and it would milk a few extra moves from the otherwise short route, however, the trails have improved since then. Thinking that moving the top anchors down over the edge might not be a bad thing if anyone supports that thought: have at it. Apr 7, 2012