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Sweet Fucker
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 23 votes
Type: | Trad |
FA: | Bill Coe, Kenny Allen, Jim Opdycke |
Page Views: | 1,276 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Highway 14 Parking
Details
PLEASE do NOT park on the slow truck ramp on the right side. Not only can it get you towed, it could easily get the crag shut down. Park only on the gravel pullouts on the cliff side of the road.
Description
Located to the right of Hummingbird Wall and 8 feet to the west of The Head Wall route, if walking the base, before the start of the cliff starts to get shorter, steep and overhanging in spots by the base is a face with some pods and small intermittent cracks for small TCU's and Nuts for pro along with a TCU/small cam for the crux. Start up the face and clip the bolts with a couple of small TCU placements between them. Climb to the base of a beautiful headwall crack and go straight up that obvious crack to the out of sight and on the top belay anchor. Don't make your Mamma cry and shame your ancestors by wussing out and traversing right 10' to the anchors visible on The Head Wall. Walk to your car or rap off the stainless Fixe anchors.
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