Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Don Mellor 1987
Page Views: 1,682 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Gagliano on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Sustained 5.10 finger crack up dead vertical wall.

Location

About 75ft to the left of Quadrophenia. Hard to see from the trail, but plainly visible form Quadrophenia.

Protection

Double up on .4 to .75 camelots.

Photos

Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
  5.10c
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
  5.10c
This route is not as thin gear-wise as it looks when viewed from Quadraphenia, but it is almost as hard as it looks. Aug 9, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
In the intro, I would say "sustained OFF fingers crack."

This thing is a forgotten gem for some reason, but fortunately it is very clean. Steep, sustained pure splitters like this are rare in the Adirondacks.

Tricky move at the top getting into the fist crack, especially if you are short with small hands like me! Really classic climb. Aug 13, 2015
Jeff McLeod
  5.10b/c
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10b/c
An excellent and sustained crack that goes from big fingers, to off fingers, to splitter hands, to fists! It starts above a horrendous and unavoidable 20ft stack of dirt and a vertical approach that makes for a pretty uncomfortable belay, but when you see it rapping from one of the other climbs you start salivating. I believe it's rated 5.10b in the guidebook. It didn't feel much harder than any of the classic 5.10s at the Spider's Web, but my big hands and fat fingers were well suited to this one. The book said to hand traverse right into the fist crack at the end, which may bump the grade up a bit. I did it this way and it was a really nice bit of pumpy climbing, but it felt a bit contrived seeing as you could just finish straight through the slot at the end, and my partner managed to just step across into the crack to clean the gear anyway. Apr 20, 2016