Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tad Welch May 23, 1991
Page Views: 1,008 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A testy moderate with a special aura due to its proximity to the dark, gaping chimney immediately to its right.

Start about 5 feet to the left of the chimney, and follow the finger/handcrack until it is possible to begin stemming off the right arete of the chimney. Fun and delicate opposition moves lead you to the top of the pedestal.

Location

On the right side of the cliff, on the face of the right facing corner/chimney. It is roughly 150 feet downhill and right of the start of Quadrophenia.

Protection

A standard rack with a couple extra finger/hand-sized pieces.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
The chimney to the right is a 5.7 variation with a #4 cam and worth trying. G protection. Aug 22, 2011
KVRob
  5.9-
KVRob  
  5.9-
I found this route to be really fun, but a little sustained and pumpy for a 5.8. I would bump the grade to a 5.9-. The crack is just about dead vertical and stays on you with tricky feet until you can stem off the chimney wall. The moves are really fun and balancy, and the gear is good. Really a fantastic single pitch route.

Looking at the picture provided above, I realize that I didn't climb it the way the leader did in the picture. I stayed in the crack the entire way, only stemming off the right wall a couple of times. Maybe that's why it felt harder. May 20, 2014
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
This is a great route that I think probably deserves three stars. Nice crack climbing then some tricky, thoughtful moves to the chockstone (bring a double length sling to sling this otherwise it is slightly runout - but easy above), and really cool textured rock in the chimney, to an exposed but easy stemming finish. Aug 13, 2015