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Routes in The Charlatan

Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 689 total, 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 1, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Valley Guy is an interesting affair, and a bit on the scruffy side, though the second bit of welded flakes and perfect jams is really enjoyable climbing. We did this line in two short pitches.

P1 Start up the Northwest Route for 50 feet until you are almost equal in height to a large hanging flake to your left. Belay in slot with small/medium cams. A #4 is helpful for the lead as well as belay.

P2 Launch out into the the left trending traverse via flake cracks, underclings, and decent feet. The crux comes at you quickly, and it is a reachy one if you want to do it static. Double up your pro here and make a long reach left to a super incut sidepull. There is a decent sidepull down low on this vertical rail. Do a quick shuffle and be rewarded with excellent gear and great climbing to the top. Belay at comfy, diagonal crack near the top. Walk off the back.

Location

After climbing down the chimney notch look east and you cant miss it. The scruffy first pitch has vegetation in it.

Protection

At least a set of doubles up to #3 camalot. A #4 is very useful.

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