Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
Routes in The Charlatan
|Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,433 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAround to the right of the start of Spooky is a thin fingertips crack. Climb this to the large ledge that marks the end of Spooky's P1. This crack takes tiny to small gear (RPs, stoppers, TCUs).
From the obvious ledge, stay right and climb the left-hand side of a steep, clean arete past three bolts--strenuous!
Finish on the upper portion of Spooky. Alternately, if you choose to belay atop and around the corner from the steep arete, you can finish up the final pitch of Fancy Free.
LocationDescend from the Djin/Charlatan notch or rappel from bolts atop Spooky to access the start of this route.
Alternately, after climbing Spooky, it is possible to rappel from the bolted anchor and TR Gemstone with a 60m rope. Directionals will need to be clipped on the bolted arete and you may wish to place a piece or two.