Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger?
Page Views: 1,852 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Around to the right of the start of Spooky is a thin fingertips crack. Climb this to the large ledge that marks the end of Spooky's P1. This crack takes tiny to small gear (RPs, stoppers, TCUs).

From the obvious ledge, stay right and climb the left-hand side of a steep, clean arete past three bolts--strenuous!

Finish on the upper portion of Spooky. Alternately, if you choose to belay atop and around the corner from the steep arete, you can finish up the final pitch of Fancy Free.

Location

Descend from the Djin/Charlatan notch or rappel from bolts atop Spooky to access the start of this route.

Alternately, after climbing Spooky, it is possible to rappel from the bolted anchor and TR Gemstone with a 60m rope. Directionals will need to be clipped on the bolted arete and you may wish to place a piece or two.

Protection

Tiny to 2", 3 quickdraws, slings for knobs

Photos