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Routes in The Charlatan

Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beach Vibes V4 6B
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Needles S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Vernon and Jason Lodas, August 1990
Page Views: 1,032 total · 8/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.


Located just left of Fancy Free.


Standard rack, with some thin stuff and a double set of cams.


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The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height. Sep 8, 2009
I was glad I'm 6' tall, but I didn't think it brought the rating down to .11a. Overall an excellent pitch and well worth doing.

All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.

The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta? Jul 19, 2010

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