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Routes in The Charlatan

Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg Vernon and Jason Lodas, August 1990
Page Views: 956 total, 8/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.

Location

Located just left of Fancy Free.

Protection

Standard rack, with some thin stuff and a double set of cams.

Photos

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Murf
  5.11c
Murf  
  5.11c
I was glad I'm 6' tall, but I didn't think it brought the rating down to .11a. Overall an excellent pitch and well worth doing.

All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.

The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta? Jul 19, 2010
ChugachMan  
 
The 11c crux on the first pitch is probably more 11a for those blessed with gangly arms and height. Sep 8, 2009