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Routes in The Charlatan
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Bad Fortune T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beach Vibes V4 6B |
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Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gemstone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Northwest Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Pins and Needles S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Spooky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Superstition T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Valley Guy, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Greg Vernon and Jason Lodas, August 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,032 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb through some funkiness to a good crack. Where the crack peters out, thin face climbing is protected by three bolts. Finish the first pitch by climbing a good right facing corner to a two bolt anchor. For the second pitch, climb up the corner and then traverse left at a ledge. Continue up another crack until you come to a two bolt anchor that meets up with Fancy Free. Continue up Fancy Free to the top.
Photos
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All three bolts and anchor are shiny ASCA hardware. A 70m allows for plenty of rope to rap/TR. A 60m would likely work but might require belaying or starting somewhat high.
The upper pitch(es) looks dirty, anyone have any beta? Jul 19, 2010