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Routes in Erotic Dome

Awfulwidth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erotic City T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hot Lips S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leg Lifter, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Volga Boat Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vulgar Boot Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Michael & Steve Strong, December 1989
Page Views: 371 total, 4/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the zig-zag route which is on the side of the buttress/face that has Erotic City. Personally, I think this is the best route at this small crag. The climbing is reachy, challenging, continuous, interesting, engaging, and exciting. A few of the moves are powerful, and you have to hang in there. The hardest moves may be at the start. At the top, there is a move past a bolt that stumped Hidetaka Suzuki for a few moments; he didn't get it his first try. If you climb at this grade, this is a worthy climb.

Location

On the right side of the Erotic Dome buttress. The route is easily seen from the road, and not far from the road.

Protection

There are a few fixed things (bolts, piton, and there used to be a fixed stopper near the top too;..I bet it's gone; it didn't seem too "fixed".) I think there is now an anchor on top, but not from the FA team.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
4 bolts plus a decent head to an anchor, no pin in sight. Powerful low and engaging up high, very tough .11a Mar 28, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
The Leg Lifter is better than Erotic City.....even though on MP, it gets less stars....go see for yourself....that is because Blitzo gave Erotic City ***.....this is all Blitzo's fault........ May 21, 2011