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Routes in Erotic Dome
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Awfulwidth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bald Women with Power Tools T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Erotic City T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hot Lips S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leg Lifter, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Volga Boat Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vulgar Boot Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wake Me When it's Over T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03935, -116.18781 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Tom Michael & Steve Strong, December 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,090 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on Jul 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the zig-zag route which is on the side of the buttress/face that has Erotic City. Personally, I think this is the best route at this small crag. The climbing is reachy, challenging, continuous, interesting, engaging, and exciting. A few of the moves are powerful, and you have to hang in there. The hardest moves may be at the start. At the top, there is a move past a bolt that stumped Hidetaka Suzuki for a few moments; he didn't get it his first try. If you climb at this grade, this is a worthy climb.
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