Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Mike Paul, John Mallery & Mike Fogarty, December 1985
Page Views: 974 total · 7/month
Shared By: Will S on May 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The route starts as a relatively easy handcrack that ends after about 30'. At this point move right and continue in the thinner crack above through a steeper section to a ledgy topout.

The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.

Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.


Pro to 2.5".


I think I always walked off to the climbers left, fairly short. Nov 19, 2008
C Miller   CA  
There are two easy descent options available - traverse right from the top where you'll find a bolted anchor on the large boulder (visible in photo) sitting atop the "Leg Lifter" route or use the rap anchors on "Hot Lips", the route which takes the sun/shadow line to the right of Erotic City. Nov 19, 2008
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
  5.11c PG13
Mike Fogarty   La Quinta, CA
  5.11c PG13
This climb is 5.11c ***

I Would like to know why this climb is now 5.11B **

I would love to see a 5.12 climber lead this onsight no falls first try! Mar 5, 2012
Mike - If you add the route to the site, you get to rate and star it. That being said, I believe Erotic City has been .11b in the Vogel guidebook since at least '92. MP.com also runs on a 4 star system so if you think 3 of 5 stars, that seems to correspond to 2 of 4 here.

Not quite sure what the last bit means, but I'm no 5.12 climber and I did onsite this route. Its kinda height dependent IMO and I'm 6' tall. Mar 5, 2012
This was my first 5.11 crack lead/send. Its been 20years or so, but I recall it to be quite doable - easy climbing and easy pro, straight into a short crux, then the top. Mar 5, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Might only be 10d if you are fit and have good shoes. Mar 5, 2012
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Got tunnel vision for the wrong sequence and it felt 5.12 in my bad shoes. Then I stopped being an idiot, figured it out, lowered, remembered I was fit, put on my good shoes... .10d.

Chris... what is the story on Hot Lips? I threw the rope down and gave it a go, pretty fun! Eventually got it all except the roof pull. Mar 28, 2012