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Routes in Cenotaph Spire

Center Crack (assumed name) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cracked (assumed name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fur Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Harebell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lest You Be Judged T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Poor Judgment (aka Poor Jamesias) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Ted Anderson
Page Views: 451 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 18, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a pretty good route and a thinking-person's route at that. Although the crux is up top, there is an awkward start and then crimps that require good focus along the entire way to that crux. The best climbing is the upper 1/3rd.

Location

This climb is the sole route on a blunt arete on the West side of Cenotaph Tower and is the only route there. It is easily identified by the single bolt on the lower section, about 10' up and one on the upper section, at about 35' up.

Protection

One bolt protects the initial climbing up to a horizontal. In the horizontal a few cams off to the right are possible and necessary to make the route safe- get them where it does not flare too badly. Climb another body length on crimps to a second horizontal and get a slid handjam and protect again with a cam in the horizontal. Move up and left and clip the second bolt, then go further left, then back right to complete the crux. The top climbing is easy, but can be protected on a 2" cam or green Camalot as well. Finish to 2 bolts/chains and lower off.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10a/b PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10a/b PG13
This is a fun climb, but it is awkward below the second bolt. The holds here are small and the move committing. I think it may feel harder than 10- for some. I saw a new sequence I will do at the crux if I ever do it again. Sep 24, 2014