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Routes in Cenotaph Spire
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Fur Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Harebell T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lest You Be Judged T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Missing an Epitaph T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poor Judgment T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Without a Body T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 40.0024, -105.4102 |
| FA: | George Bracksieck and Mike Endicott, 7/17 |
| Page Views: | 767 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Jul 23, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab
Details
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Starting in the same place as Lest Thou Be Judged, I stepped up, then reached right, over the top of a Jamesia shrub. I shuffled right, around the shrub, and moved up the slightly overhanging rock, placing an insecure #8 Stopper then the smallest C3. I placed the two next-larger sizes of C3 in rapid succession. I made some long reaches in bulging terrain and shuffled right, around another Jamesia. I placed a #3 C4 and climbed past a loose, flat rock held by yet another Jamesia that lurked in the bottom of the chimney. I placed a #0.75 C4 in a pod in a thin crack to the right of the chimney and felt out the crack above.
The crack was difficult and petered out in gathering lichen, well below the summit. I chose, instead, to retreat upward into the chimney, squeezing into its security, while trying to avoid skinning my bare knees. A red C3 was more comforting than kneepads. On the summit, I extended the Harebell chains, so we could toprope the thin crack that is right of the chimney.
Is this really a first ascent? If Haas and Bubb previously claimed FAs of three other equally scroungy routes on this rock (and not this one), then this route must be an FA. No Jamesias were harmed in the exploration of this route; they merely had to endure our advances.
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