Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bubb, Haas, 2/2016
Page Views: 179 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 28, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This has some surprisingly good climbing once you get going on this route. 'Judge Not' by first appearances.

The problem here will be for folks of shorter stature. At 5'11", this is going to feel like 5.9, probably, but the grade will increase steeply for climbers much shorter than that.

The opening moves on the vertical terrain require a spotter to get into. Start up with no gear on some small flakes and tip-toe up until you can reach high and right to clasp a good hold in the first horizontal. With that reached, work up to place gear and get into the short section of vertical crack. I placed an extra piece there before heading up into the flakes on either side of a slight depression in the wall. Switching side to side on surprisingly good holds, and climb up past 2 more horizontal cracks (good gear available) to the top of the crag. 3" cams can be placed for gear up top.

Walk off to the East down the spine of the tower.

Location

On the NW side of Cenotaph Spire, just left of the main spire tower, perhaps 4 meters left of the start of Harebell. A long reach off of small flakes gets you to a good horizontal, then some stemming to the sides can take you into a short vertical crack system (and jams) before the opposition and flake climbing goes past 2 more horizontals to the top.

Protection

A set of cams from 0.5"-3" and doubles in 1-2".

Photos

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