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Routes in Middle Class Wall

Black Eye In Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Eye In The Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Collar Baby S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goin' Streakin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lichenback S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mass Appeal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Middle Class Cracker T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Management S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Streaky Stylee S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkletoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Beavers
Page Views: 142 total, 2/month
Shared By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

5 bolts of easy climbing lead up and left to the middle ledge (use long draws). A hard first move off the ledge is followed by hard sustained climbing and the crux sequence through the last 2 bolts. Originally graded 12c (which I'll admit was a sandbag) then bumped up to 13a. Seems to be settling in at 12d, but you be the judge.

Location

The 1st route right of Middle Class Cracker follows the leftmost of the 3 black streaks on the obvious overhanging headwall (see photo on the Middle Class page).

Protection

11 bolts to chains.

Photos

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Aaron Ramras
  5.12c/d
Aaron Ramras  
  5.12c/d
This route has outstanding climbing in excellent position! It is sustained with two OK rests, and the moves are big and powerful with technical footwork. At 6' tall with an even ape index, I felt stiff 12c was appropriate. For myself, it was harder than Pinklebear but not as hard as Dream of Poudre on the upper tier. If you're shorter, things will be significantly harder. This route deserves more attention...it's every bit as good as the hard routes up above! Jul 14, 2015
Damon Vaughan
  5.13a
Damon Vaughan  
  5.13a
This route is an absolute gem! I don't think there is a better line in the Poudre, except possibly Dream. This took a TON of work from me and maximum effort to send. For that reason, I think it's solidly 13a. It feels closer in difficulty to a route like Public Solitude than Dream of Poudre or even Landing Strip, but then again, it is a bit reachy and I am not tall. Get on this thing!!! Dec 20, 2013
Rob Bailey
  5.12d
Rob Bailey  
  5.12d
Five clips of pure bliss. Sustained, powerfull, two moderate rests, big moves, all business, cruxy middle section, and a dyno for dessert. Who could ask for anything more. Thank you, Beavs. It seems to be hard 12d to me. Not quite 13a, but definitely not 12c. Jun 29, 2010