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Routes in Middle Class Wall

Black Eye In Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Eye In The Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Collar Baby S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goin' Streakin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lichenback S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mass Appeal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Middle Class Cracker T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Management S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Streaky Stylee S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkletoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Beavers
Page Views: 46 total, 1/month
Shared By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Blue Collar Baby is kind of funky but interesting enough with some good sections.

Start stemming in a right-facing dihedral and reach out left to clip the 1st bolt. Follow the crack out left and pass 3 more bolts (crux) to a ledge and good rest. Head up and right through steep, blocky terrain to another ledge, then follow the crack past 2 more bolts and yet another ledge out left before climbing the nice prow to the chains.

Location

Currently this is the leftmost route at Middle Class (see photo on Middle Class page).

Protection

10 bolts to chains.

Photos

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jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Against my better judgment (0 stars in the guidebook), I decided to give this a burn. Although it wanders a bit before eventually going straight up, the climbing before the 8th bolt has multiple 5.11 cruxes and is pretty fun. However, the rock is pretty chossy left of 3rd bolt before traversing right and a crumbly lichenfest left of bolts 7 to 10. The description says to head left before going up the upper prow, but this is some of the worst rock, and the entire left side of the arete needs to be cleaned of dirt and lichen before I'd ever recommend this route to anyone. Staying right the last two bolts and away from the arete would bump this route up a few grades, but at least it would be some of the better stone before getting to yet again even more chossy rock before the anchor. I really wanted to like this route, but unless there is better beta to avoid the left side of the arete for a few moves around bolt 9, this route is a total bomb. Jul 1, 2013