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Routes in Middle Class Wall

Black Eye In Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Eye In The Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Collar Baby S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goin' Streakin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lichenback S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mass Appeal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Middle Class Cracker T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Management S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Streaky Stylee S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkletoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Beavers, Walz
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Undercling/layback the small roof at the start and continue up the slab to chains on the left side of the middle ledge. Short and not super sustained at the grade but great rock and quality climbing. A bit runout getting to the chains but the climbing gets a lot easier as you get further away from the last bolt (there is a slabby crux right above the last bolt).

Location

The left route of the 3 on the smiley face (see photo on Middle Class page).

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

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Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
From the anchors on MM, you can continue up and right on Streaky Stylee for a nice, long, 5.10c/d pitch. Be sure to keep diagonaling right, not straight up into the 5.12b crux of Overtime. Jul 3, 2015
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
There's a bat living in the undercling to right-facing sidepull flake at the 3rd bolt. It was freaking out when I got to the right-facing flake and then flew out and landed on my pants. The hardest moves on the slab are when you are 3 to 5 feet above the last bolt. After that, it's pretty cruizer to the anchors. This felt like old school New River Gorge style slab climbing (hard!) to me above the 5th bolt. Maybe if I'd tried it with better temperatures it would have felt easier. Jul 1, 2013
This route would be deserving of another star or two if there was one more bolt near the end. As it is, it is a little confusing why an otherwise well protected route would have such a runout where a broken or wet hold might result in a very nasty fall. Jun 6, 2011