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Routes in Middle Class Wall

Black Eye In Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Eye In The Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blue Collar Baby S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goin' Streakin' S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lichenback S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mass Appeal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Middle Class Cracker T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Management S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overtime S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Streaky Stylee S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkletoes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Beavers
Page Views: 152 total · 2/month
Shared By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start up easy ground and carefully clip the 1st bolt (or stick clip) then hand traverse the right angling horizontal crack to a stance out right. Getting from the 1st to the 3rd bolt is the routes crux sequence - powerful with a tough 2nd clip. Be careful clipping the 3rd bolt, itÂ’s an easy clip from good holds but a bad one to blow. Stays hard through the 4th bolt and becomes easier as you approach the middle ledge. From the middle ledge power up a hard move or two to gain the slab and follow it up and right through the white rock and good jugs into the dihedral and the right side of the small roof up high (be careful not to go straight up into Overtime). Surmount the roof and continue past the last bolt to a mantle finish.

Location

The middle route of the 3 on the smiley face (see photo on Middle Class page).

Protection

11 bolts to chains.

Photos

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Michael Botkin
Fort Collins, CO
 
Michael Botkin   Fort Collins, CO
 
I would highly recommend a 70m rope for this, although it isn't noted in the guidebook. My rope is around 64m, and climbing this then cleaning, my belayer had to climb up to the large shelf where you clip bolt one in order to take me off belay so I could downclimb to the belay ledge. Jun 1, 2014

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