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Routes in Juniper Wall
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All the Right Moves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Amelie T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Angelica T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Constant Gardener, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deception Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fight Club T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stair Step Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown OW to Fingers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.81658, -108.60438 |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 661 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Jun 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is another cool route that is not in the guidebook. I'm assuming its been done before though I'd love to claim the FA. It seemed a little too clean....
Begin in the same right-facing corner as the Unknown OW, but cut over right as soon as you can to another short crack. Keep traversing past this to a big left-facing corner. A couple stem moves lead to the big roof. Sack up and fire it pulling the lip into baggy fingers (crux). There are enough feet and face holds that it's not TOO desperate.
Once through the crux don't forget to smell the flowers (there's a big cluster at face level), and enjoy steep, fun jamming to the top. There's a weird OW-ish section guarding the top.
This might be 11- but I thought is was comparable with Renaissance. Who knows....
Location
Far right. This is actually the analog crack system of Angelica, and you can see all the way through!
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