Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Juniper Wall

All the Right Moves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amelie T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angelica T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Constant Gardener, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deception Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fight Club T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stair Step Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown OW to Fingers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Jun 5, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Private Property Details

Description

This is another cool route that is not in the guidebook. I'm assuming its been done before though I'd love to claim the FA. It seemed a little too clean....

Begin in the same right-facing corner as the Unknown OW, but cut over right as soon as you can to another short crack. Keep traversing past this to a big left-facing corner. A couple stem moves lead to the big roof. Sack up and fire it pulling the lip into baggy fingers (crux). There are enough feet and face holds that it's not TOO desperate.

Once through the crux don't forget to smell the flowers (there's a big cluster at face level), and enjoy steep, fun jamming to the top. There's a weird OW-ish section guarding the top.

This might be 11- but I thought is was comparable with Renaissance. Who knows....

Location

Far right. This is actually the analog crack system of Angelica, and you can see all the way through!

Protection

Mostly fingers and hands.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments