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Routes in Juniper Wall

All the Right Moves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amelie T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angelica T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Constant Gardener, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deception Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Diagonal Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fear of Flying T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fight Club T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stair Step Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown OW to Fingers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Julian Poush, Skyeler Congdon, June 19, 2010
Page Views: 427 total, 5/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 21, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property Details

Description

Amelie is a variation to the first pitch of Fear of Flying. It goes up the first 20 feet of Fear of Flying then instead of traversing, it heads straight up in a flared dihedral. The climbing in the dihedral is very reminiscent of Flare Thee Well in Vedauwoo. It stops at the belay stance for the first pitch of Fear of Flying.

Location

The route starts in the same place as Fear of Flying.

Build an anchor, and finish with the last pitch of Fear of Flying.

Protection

A single set of cams 00 Metolius to #1 Camalot. 1 set of small to medium stoppers. 2 #1 Metolius TCUs, 2 #1 Metolius Power Cams, 2 #2 Metolius Power Cams. 2-3 single length runners. 1 #0.5 Camalot, 2 #0.75 Camalots for the anchor.

Photos

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Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
Pablo, at 12a this route is graded stiff. You pull Fear of Flying's 11c-ish first crux with a ground fall protected by one piece, then the Amelie variation starts and I couldn't even do the moves on TR, and I've led 12a trad. I think Julian is drawing a comparison as to the style of climbing with this and Flare Thee Well. Sep 13, 2010
EldoFiend   WY
Hey, in Wyoming 30 feet could net you two new routes. And speaking of Wyoming, Flare Thee Well is 11-. You need to get out of the land of inflated grades, Julian. Come back to the light. Jun 24, 2010
mtoensing
Boulder
mtoensing   Boulder
Why is the route called Amelie?

Just curious because my very recent ex-gf's name is Amelie, and I would crack up if it was indeed a choss pile. Next time I'm out there, I'll hope on it and see if the two have similar personalities. Jun 22, 2010
Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
Can you really call a 30 ft variation to a pre-existing 120 ft route a NEW route?? Maybe they allow that kind of ego-petting up in Wyoming, but this is Unaweep....

And why is my name on the FA? I had nothing to do with this choss ;) Jun 21, 2010