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Routes in (j) Rope de Dope Block

Float Like a Butterfly S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Low Can You Go? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immortal Beloved S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Low Blow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mini Bender S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morgantown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Slab Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Rope de Dope Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shamu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepy Town S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting Like a Bee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Alan Watts, JoAnn Miller-Watts 1991
Page Views: 1,081 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ebb Ebbing on Jun 2, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Originally rated 5.3X in the first edition of Watts' book, the second edition now rates this at 5.5R. While not difficult, the lower moves are awkward enough that a rating above 5.3 seems warranted. Poorly protected for trad climbing, but a good beginner route once a TR is established. For the very small or very timid, one can "cheat" a bit by starting up and left of the crack, although this would likely downgrade the route back to the 5.3 range.

Location

Furthest left route on the North (left) side of the block (left of "How Low Can You Go"). Start in the flaring crack and work your way up.

Protection

No bolts. Poor/limited placement for trad gear. Does have anchors at the top.

Photos

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Todd Singleton
Springfield, OR
  5.5
Todd Singleton   Springfield, OR
  5.5
When did this get bolted? I climbed it yesterday and there was a clear bolt line straddling the crack and two sets of anchors at the top. The first anchor only had one rap ring. Anyway, it makes a decent warm-up/cool-down if How Low Can You Go or Shamu are taken. I agree with the earlier comment that this would make a perfect top rope station for the kids. Jul 24, 2017
Laralyn Mowers
Astoria, NY
 
Laralyn Mowers   Astoria, NY
 
Great warm-up route. Jul 12, 2017
Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
 
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
 
This is a great spot to string up the kiddos on a top rope. My son (5) and daughter (3) both made it about half way up the route by starting just up and left of the true (crack) start. They could have likely finished the route if their anxiety hadn't gotten the best of them! Jun 3, 2010