PRINT: Rock Climb North Slab Crack, Smith Rock

North Slab Crack

5.5, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 118 votes
FA: Alan Watts, JoAnn Miller-Watts 1991
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (j) Rope de Dope Block

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Originally rated 5.3X in the first edition of Watts' book, the second edition now rates this at 5.5R. While not difficult, the lower moves are awkward enough that a rating above 5.3 seems warranted. Poorly protected for trad climbing, but a good beginner route once a TR is established. For the very small or very timid, one can "cheat" a bit by starting up and left of the crack, although this would likely downgrade the route back to the 5.3 range.

Location

Furthest left route on the North (left) side of the block (left of "How Low Can You Go"). Start in the flaring crack and work your way up.

Protection

Bolted with anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Becca leading North Slab Crack

Looking down from the top of North Slab Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Ebbing
Vancouver, WA

5.5

This is a great spot to string up the kiddos on a top rope. My son (5) and daughter (3) both made it about half way up the route by starting just up and left of the true (crack) start. They could have likely finished the route if their anxiety hadn't gotten the best of them! Jun 3, 2010

M P
Somewhere in the desert

Great warm-up route. Jul 12, 2017

Todd Singleton
Springfield, OR

5.5

When did this get bolted? I climbed it yesterday and there was a clear bolt line straddling the crack and two sets of anchors at the top. The first anchor only had one rap ring. Anyway, it makes a decent warm-up/cool-down if How Low Can You Go or Shamu are taken. I agree with the earlier comment that this would make a perfect top rope station for the kids. Jul 24, 2017

Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ

5.7

A nice warm up route. Sep 3, 2021

Paul Willison
Bend, OR

Great route to teach fundamentals due to easy access and chill moves. Jul 7, 2025