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Routes in (j) Rope de Dope Block

Float Like a Butterfly S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Low Can You Go? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Immortal Beloved S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Low Blow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mini Bender S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morgantown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Slab Crack S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rope de Dope Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shamu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepy Town S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sting Like a Bee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,688 total · 11/month
Shared By: Addict on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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92 Opinions

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Description

A short but very fun face climb 2 to the right of the 5.8 crack. It used to be a TR, but now has bolts. This is the center of 3 routes next to each other.

The crux is the lower half and involves some excellent sidepulls and gas pockets with smeary feet and 1 heel hook. Very athletic for the grade. Much better than Float Like A Butterfly. Would be a 4 star route if it was twice as long.

Protection

6 bolts with an 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Back in October of 1999, Alan Watts answered a question posted on the now defunct crag.com about Rope De Dope routes. Based on this posting by him, the routes and names on the block got remamed when a number of them got bolted around then. This route sounds like what is now called "Morgantown" and was given a tentative 10b by Alan. It's the center route(of 3) right of Rope De Dope Crack. I agree it's a great route and I'd possibly consider it 4 star too if it was longer. 10c sounds reasonable to me also. The "new" bolted "Sting Like a Bee" route is just right of the crack(and just left of this route), and was also given a tentative 10b then.
Alan noted that the line drawn for Sting Like a Bee in his 92 guide was drawn incorrectly and that the current bolted line for it doesn't follow the line in the guide. Apr 25, 2006
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
 
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
 
This is a super fun route with some really cool moves. At the bottom there is a system of sidepulls and gastons that look like africa and pulling the roof is sweet. It would be cool if the route was longer but it is still a classic. Aug 31, 2006
great movement, super continuous May 21, 2013
scotticusmaximus
Santa Cruz, CA
 
scotticusmaximus   Santa Cruz, CA
 
Great movement and fun climb! Just be careful clipping the second bolt as it happens right around a big move and there's decking potential - probably why there's that bolt for the belayer. Sep 12, 2013
S.Lee
  5.10
S.Lee  
  5.10
Great route, would be classic if it was longer. May 10, 2015
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.10a
Watch out for the creaking undercut/sidepull hold above the 3rd bolt. It will blow soon.

10a is a good grade for this - there is no way that it is 10c. Sep 25, 2016

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