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Routes in Roadside Boulders

Get Your War On S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iceberg S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Narcolepsy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapid Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 59 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on May 14, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Blocky climbing leads to a devious fingercrack on a less than vertical wall.

Location

On the cliffs above the roadside boulders.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"

Photos

- No Photos -
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
The beginning is so-so and the crack only moderately interesting. Not sure why it gets 4 stars in the book. I did go beyond the first chain anchors to climb a couple more feet of a nice dihedral, but the bulge to the ledge above is very loose and dirty. I stepped left to a new set of mussy hooks over another (new?) climb. Exactly 100 foot rap. Better to stop at the first chains. May 24, 2012
Patrick Smith
  5.8
Patrick Smith  
  5.8
Turn up after the big, rusty pipe on the road. Climbs an obvious fat finger/thin hand crack going up through and above a plant filled pocket. Very 5.8, if it seems harder you're missing a hold or jam. Easy to protect, lots of nuts (and rests for them) lower into .5-2 camalots, small TCUs or C3s at the bottom. Bolt anchors.

Looks like there could be more to climb above it, although we didn't give it a go. It may be worthwhile to work the crack above the anchors. May 30, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Seems like you could add a little information other than 'its on the cliff above the boulders'. May 15, 2010