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Routes in Last Temptation Cliff

Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Charlie Milligan
Page Views: 427 total, 5/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Bold 5.10- moves get you to an uncomfortably high first bolt (be careful!). Easier climbing leads to the base of an intimidating roof. Clip a well-placed bolt and crank over the huge roof on some signature Castle Rock "sloping jugs" (crux). Finish with 30 feet of easy slabbing, passing two bolt-protected 5.8/5.9 roofs (shared with "Chimps in Negligee").

Location

Pretty much in the center of the crag. About 40 feet left of "Go I Know Not Wither". Look for a large, bolt-protected roof 20-25 feet off the ground. This is bolt two of "Charlie's Angel".

Protection

5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
Though it's rated harder, I thought this route, while rated 5.11b, was noticeably easier than "Live Monkey Brain" (5.11a). But it's hard to compare the two, as a "Live Monkey Brain" is much more sustained than the one-move wonder "Charlie's Angel". Apr 23, 2010