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Routes in Last Temptation Cliff

Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,103 total, 12/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

A fun moderate on nice rock. While the moves are probably on the easy side of 5.9 (at least if you are taller), this route might be a bit unnerving for a leader at their limit due to the high first bolt.

Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.

Location

Starts is fifty feet left of "Go I Know Not Whither" and ten feet left of "Charlie's Angel", a climb made obvious due to its large, bolt-protected roof.

To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor

Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.

Photos

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Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
There's a big yellow jacket nest up and right from "Chimps". Always has been there with swarms coming out and getting back in. Avoid! Sep 3, 2015
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Just above the crux bulge, 15-20 feet to climbers right, lots of yellow jackets were seen nesting around sunset. They didn't bother me while sticking to the climb, but if you were to move about 10-15 feet to the right on a natural ledge, you'd regret it. Aug 24, 2015
Brian Snider
NorCal
 
Brian Snider   NorCal
 
Good description, all three tough spots are well protected. The cams are for down low before the first bolt on the low angle slab section, but they are not really needed as your already close to the first bolt and on easy ground. Jan 10, 2011