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> Castle Rock Area
> Last Temptation Cliff
Chimps in Negligee
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 33
votes
Routes in Last Temptation Cliff
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Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chimps in Negligee T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Do Crack Kids T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Go I Know Not Whither and Bring Back I Know Not What T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Don Simmons, Bruce Morris 1992 |
| Page Views: | 2,714 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
A fun moderate on nice rock. While the moves are probably on the easy side of 5.9 (at least if you are taller), this route might be a bit unnerving for a leader at their limit due to the high first bolt.
Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.
Climb unprotected 5.6 slab for ten feet to a ledge. Ten more feet of easier slabbing gets you to the first bolt. Find the good holds and pull yourself over the well-protected roof (crux?). More easy slabbing leads to harder moves at two more roofs, with a bolt protecting each.
Location
Starts is fifty feet left of "Go I Know Not Whither" and ten feet left of "Charlie's Angel", a climb made obvious due to its large, bolt-protected roof.
To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".
To find "Chimps", look for a bolt about 20-25 feet off the ground, just to the right of a low angle, slabby ramp. This is the first bolt of "Chimps".
Protection
3 bolts to a two bolt anchor
Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.
Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.
Morris's excellent guidebook advises you to bring cams (.75-2 in), but I didn't really see much opportunity to place them. That said, you might as well bring them if you have them.
Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.
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