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Routes in Last Temptation Cliff

Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Description

Last Temptation is a small crag that is found on the way to Goat Rock. The cliffs face west and are in full sun most of the day making it a fairly hot place to climb. There are approximately 8 routes here, mostly sport, but some routes do require trad gear. Anchors are found on top of most routes. An easy decent follows a trail down the left side of the cliffs. Other guidebooks do mention snakes but we didn't see any on this trip.
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Getting There

From the Castle Rock State Park parking lot, follow the trail that leads down towards the Waterfalls lookout platform. Once you cross the little stream don't follow the trail leading down left to the waterfall but follow the trail that goes up the hill and to the left. After about 5 minutes the trail will lead out of the trees and as soon as you are out in the open, look right and up. The right side of the Last Temptation cliffs will be about 40' above you. A path leads up towards the left side of the cliffs from the patch of trees ahead.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Last Temptation Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither
Trad, Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death & Taxes
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Live Monkey Brain
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Go I Know Not To Wither 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Death & Taxes 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Live Monkey Brain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Last Temptation Cliff »

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Photos

djh650  
bee hive on top to the left of live monkey brains Jul 20, 2017
Smart, that looks like Last Temptation Cliff, and your rope hanging between Chimps in Negligee (5.9 on left) and Charlie's Angel (5.11b on right). Jan 31, 2015
SmartRockClimbing
Oceano, CA
SmartRockClimbing   Oceano, CA
Had a great time visiting this area last weekend. As we were on the trail to Goat Rock, we ended up checking out the first rock formation we came to and climbed it a bit. There's plenty of bolted anchors on it and a couple sport routes. I can't find any info on it on Mountain project. Anyone know what rock we climbed.

It's located at 37.227907, -122.105680. See the map
here


Jan 29, 2015
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Bolted routes from left to right on the main Last Temptation cliffband:

1. Lobotomy, 5.11d. One bolt about 10 feet up, two closely spaced bolts at a big roof about 40 feet up, two-bolt anchor.

2. Chimps in Negligee, 5.9, 3 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Charlie's Angel)

3. Charlie's Angel, 5.11b, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with Chimps in Negligee).

4. Go I Know Not Whither, 5.10d, 4 bolts, two-bolt anchor (bring cams, finger or hand sized).

5. Live Monkey Brain, 5.11a, 5 bolts, two-bolt anchor. Apr 25, 2010

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