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Live Monkey Brain
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 16
votes
Routes in Last Temptation Cliff
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Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,012 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park websiteparks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park websiteparks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
A very nice, sustained, thin-face route. Well protected.
Crank a couple of moves on nice jugs that set you up for a strenuous first clip. Thin edging and smearing leads to a surprise "thank god" jug and a well-earned rest. Clip the third bolt and dance through the crimpy crux sequence. The difficulty backs off just past the fourth bolt, though you don't ever really get that top-out jug you are hoping for. Easy terrain leads to one more 5.9ish move just below the anchors (protected by the fifth bolt).
Crank a couple of moves on nice jugs that set you up for a strenuous first clip. Thin edging and smearing leads to a surprise "thank god" jug and a well-earned rest. Clip the third bolt and dance through the crimpy crux sequence. The difficulty backs off just past the fourth bolt, though you don't ever really get that top-out jug you are hoping for. Easy terrain leads to one more 5.9ish move just below the anchors (protected by the fifth bolt).
pleasanton, ca
Palo Alto