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Routes in Last Temptation Cliff

Charlie's Angel S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimps in Negligee T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death & Taxes TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Go I Know Not To Wither T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Live Monkey Brain S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lobotomy S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sunset Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weather the Wither (AKA Fish Taco) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,012 total · 10/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

A very nice, sustained, thin-face route. Well protected.

Crank a couple of moves on nice jugs that set you up for a strenuous first clip. Thin edging and smearing leads to a surprise "thank god" jug and a well-earned rest. Clip the third bolt and dance through the crimpy crux sequence. The difficulty backs off just past the fourth bolt, though you don't ever really get that top-out jug you are hoping for. Easy terrain leads to one more 5.9ish move just below the anchors (protected by the fifth bolt).

Location

The obvious clean face about ten feet right of "Go I Know Not Whither". The furthest right route in the main Last Temptation area.

Protection

5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Walk around to the top of the cliff (trail on the left side of the crag) to clean your anchor draws.

Photos

Jeff Weinberg
pleasanton, ca
 
Jeff Weinberg   pleasanton, ca
 
Highly recommend bringing gear to elongate your anchor. Anchoring bolts are far back on the rock up top. Was a pretty sustained root and a good one at that. Dec 25, 2017
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.10c/d
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.10c/d
Pretty soft for the grade, probably closer to 10c/d, if that. Great climbing though. Mar 5, 2018

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