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King Dinosaur V7 7A+
King is Dead, The V6 7A
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,814 total · 18/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Two move wonder. The first is the crux.
Start on two slots in the middle of the face, one slightly higher than the other. Make a HARD move up to a sharp hold and toss to the top.
I heard that the bottom hold used to be better than the top, if that's the case, then the bottom hold has broken significantly.
I'm using the difficulty grade in the book. I've climbed other v7s and this felt harder, but I'd like a second opinion.


If you found the boulder, you found the problem.


two pads and a spot are nice, but not necessary.


Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
I can't really add too much of a second opinion other than to say it's freakin' hard. On other climbs in the 7 range here and at the 'yard I can usually make at least a competent effort, but I can't even find a position to get my feet off the ground on this thing. Do you use the foothold that's way out to the left and try to throw, or am I completely botching the beta? Mar 8, 2010
Sean Denny
Sean Denny   Irvine
Yeah, I use a foothold out left. I seem to recall hiking my right foot up there, establishing, and throwing.
Truth be told, I think that if you can get on the wall and comfortably hold that starting position, you can do the problem.
This thing is bloody hard to be sure. I'm just reluctant to boost the grade due to my lack of experience with the V8+ range.
My only gauge is that it took me a few weeks of attempts (probably around 100) and some serious psyche, whereas other 7s (smooth criminal, gangster hippy, call me right, etc) took me at most a week or two of work. Mar 9, 2010
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
It's hard fer an old git like me to remember exactly but I do think the first hold is smaller than it was but I always thought it was very hard for it's grade anyway. Wills graded it, and he's got very strong and also very small fingers. The way he used to hike the thing it was hard for me to uprate it but it's always felt WAY harder than any other V7 that I ever did. Desperate. Feb 21, 2011
That little piece broke off the pocket 10 years ago...didn't affect the difficulty. I've seen [little] guys hike it and say no way was it V7. I always thought the rating was fine. Also Sean, this may have felt harder than those 3 problems because none of them are V7. Mar 11, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I'm thinking of starting a support group for people who are working this problem and have big fingers. I went for it today on this problem, and busted a tip because I couldn't cram my damn sausage fingers in to the slot.

Session ruined.

Still, rad problem. Jun 13, 2011
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
I got on this for the first time today and sent it pretty quick. It is really my style of problem though. I don't really know if it is harder than V7, I have yet to work on anything V8 so not really sure what the grade feels like. Defiantly not 8+ or 9 though.

My beta was a right foot on the good foot hold out left and just do a twisting throw up to the decent crimp. A key was to trust your left fingers not blowing out of the shallow pocket.

I loved it others with me hated it. Mar 1, 2012
Sean Denny
Sean Denny   Irvine
Re-climbed this on Wednesday. Fantastic piece of rock. You guys are all right. V7 it is.

Any word on the sit? It looks hard, and I seem to recall some dude telling me years ago that it went at V10. Jan 13, 2013
Gregory Su  
I'm sure finger size makes big a difference on this problem. When I tried it a while ago I found the big throw move very hard, even after establishing on the starting crimps. For some reason, it felt quite a bit easier yesterday. For the left hand crimp, instead of e.g. stacking my thumb on my index finger, I found it helpful to push up with my thumb against the surface of the rock, effectively adding some downward force to the crimp and making the left hand a little more solid. Some may find this helpful, but seems like it won't work for everyone. Jul 25, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
A quick note about this problem and my relationship with it:

When I was climbing all the time in my twenties, I used to work this problem every now and then, but always got absolutely shut down. The crimp was too small, too sharp, and I was too much a wuss. Then, I started a business, got married, got a dog, had a kid, got super busy, and basically didn't go to the Mouth for a long, long time. And this last season, I hung out exclusively in my garage for one-hour chunks of time and sessioned on my hangboard. That was it. No outdoor climbing.

Then, at the ripe age of thirty-three, and for the first time in forever, my wife Mary and I (and my newborn son) came to Lizard's Mouth. I thought "hey, I should look at King Dinosaur again".

Hiked it. Easily. Then did it again, just for fun. Moral: hangboarding works, and thirty is the new twenty.

Like Sean, my question to the world is HAS ANYONE DONE A SIT-START?

That would be oh-so-proud. Jan 1, 2015
Wills did a lower start eons ago, but I wouldn't call it a "sit". Said it was V9ish I recall. Jan 2, 2015
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
Video of me sending King Dinosaur. Super fun!… Jun 5, 2016
Alan Zhan
Seattle, WA
Alan Zhan   Seattle, WA
I gave this some hard burns in December and I have to say I wouldn't describe that bottom right hand hold as a slot... more like a miserable slopey crimp.

That said the first move is $$, only stuck it once, but I've never felt so good popping off a hold! Feb 14, 2017

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